Alaska Trip Day 70

7/25/11

Roosevelt Harbor, Zarembo Island, AK

Miles Travelled:  38

Whew, we certainly didn’t get as far as we hoped today!  We are about 10 miles from Wrangell and plan to get there tomorrow morning, but we sure were glad to pull into Roosevelt Harbor after a long day.

We needed to wait at Point Baker until 8am when the ranger office was open in order to secure our permits for Anan Bear Observatory, and by the time it was all said and done and we got through and got our permits (yay!), we didn’t leave the dock until 8:45.  Pretty much as soon as we got out into Sumner Strait, we had current against us.  It wasn’t too bad at first, we lost about 0.2 kts, but soon enough it got worse and we saw 3.6 kts for WAY TOO LONG!  Between leaving later than usual and the contrary current, we just couldn’t make it all the way to Wrangell today.  Fortunately Roosevelt Harbor is comfortable, well protected, and not too far from Wrangell for our transit tomorrow.

It was a long day of motoring which always seems longer when you can’t go as fast as you usually do.  Over the past couple of days the boys have had slight colds and I woke up with it today so I wasn’t feeling that energetic.  I did get some bread made and some good playing done with the boys.

I was at the helm for part of the day and if Tor had a little navigational oops in Rocky Pass yesterday, I had one today.  There is a very well marked rock in Sumner Strait called the Eye Opener.  I didn’t realize how far a one fathom shoal stuck out from the Eye Opener and at the last minute had Tor look at the electronic chart to see where we were and right then I was about to drive over the shoal.  I made a quick and sharp course correction to successfully avoid the shoal.  The Eye Opener sure opened my eyes!

We pulled into Roosevelt Harbor just in time to finish cooking dinner (rockfish, carrots and fresh bread).

Alaska Trip Day 69

7/24/11

Point Baker, Prince of Wales Island, AK

Miles Travelled:  25

Alice and Steve from Second Wind like to stop at Point Baker when they are in the area (they’ve been cruising northward from their homeport of Anacortes every summer since 1997, they don’t always come as far as Alaska, but they have lots of cruising experience up here).  We decided to join them after transiting Rocky Pass. 

The transit of Rocky Pass was no big deal.  We made good use of the electronic charts we have on the computer with me down below checking our progress as Tor navigated the boat using the paper chart in the cockpit and the navigation markers.  It was a piece of cake, though it is strange to have a chart with soundings in feet and not fathoms (one fathom is 6 feet).  Once we were out into much less constricted water we did have a little bit of a scare when Tor got distracted listening to the weather forecast on the  VHF radio and doing a log entry, something made him take a quick look at the depth sounder and it said 8 feet.  He had enough time to do a quick 90 degree turn and we got back into deeper water.  Whew!  We almost had a summer cabin in Alaska!

A 25 mile day is tough for us because of nap schedules.  If we leave at our usual time of around 7:30, we can do a 15 mile or a 40 mile day very easily.  Since today’s plan was for 25 miles and we had to leave at our usual time due to high tide, we ended up slowing down and doing only about 4 kts all the way across Sumner Strait to Point Baker so we could let the boys have a good long nap without worrying about waking them up when we tied up at the dock. 

We were excited about Point Baker for a chance to get ice and maybe a meal at their restaurant.  Unfortunately we didn’t take into account that it was Sunday and it turns out everything was closed.  Oh well, we made good use of the community hall and the boys crawled ALL over while we visited with Alice and Steve.

For dinner we had the last of the salmon from Scott with sweet potatoes and the last of the broccoli I bought in Sitka.  We are looking forward to getting some fresh stuff in Wrangell.  We are planning on making the approximately 40 mile trip to Wrangell tomorrow so that we will be in good shape for getting to the Anan Bear Observatory on the 28^th (we hope to secure permits to visit Anan tomorrow morning before we leave Point Baker).

After the boys went to bed we set up the baby monitor and were able to visit over on Second Wind.  We had a lovely evening and stayed up way too late.  We will part ways with Alice and Steve tomorrow because they are heading further south towards Craig and we are heading towards Wrangell, but hopefully we will run into them as we continue homeward as the summer winds down.

Alaska Trip Day 68

7/23/11

Rocky Pass (between Kuiu and Kupreanof Islands), AK

Miles Travelled:  48

This morning started off a little rough.  We woke up at 5am in order to get out across Chatham Strait before the predicted winds would be opposing the ebb tide.  Lars woke up while we were getting ready and it spawned several miscommunications between Tor and me, so even though Lars went back to sleep with little more than some back patting, the morning for Tor and me was kind of sour.  Fortunately we talked it through and figured out some things to try for making early mornings like that go better.

The predicted wind (S 15 kts) never appeared and we motored across a glass calm Chatham Strait and into Frederick Sound.  We saw lots of humpback whales in Frederick sound but they were never very close, and I even saw a couple of Orcas.

The weather was glorious.  I was at the helm a significant portion of the morning and we motored into Rocky Pass while the boys were napping.  The usual north/ south route by Kupreanof Island is Wrangell Narrows which is very well marked, dredged to known depths and very busy with commercial traffic.  We used Wrangell Narrows on our trip northward and decided to give Rocky Pass a try on our trip southward.  Rocky pass is very shallow, kelp infested and though a portion of it called “The Summit” used to be dredged it is no longer.  The Coast Guard does not recommend boaters to pass through and even went as far as taking out all of the navigation markers several years ago to try and dissuade people from using it.  That only caused more problems and the Coast Guard had to rescue more people from Rocky Pass, so they put the markers back in.  You need to transit it at high water because at zero tide the minimum depths in the navigable sections are about 4 feet.  We draw 4.5 feet, so high tide is mandatory!  Actually, you want to hit the two tricky sections, “The Summit” and “Devil’s Elbow” just before high tide so that there is some current to lay the kelp down to help reduce the risk that you will get kelp wrapped up in your prop.  We weren’t going to go through The Summit or Devil’s Elbow today because the timing wasn’t right for high water…besides that, we’d covered enough miles today!  But, the great thing about Rocky Pass is that you can anchor just about anywhere.  The depths are shallow enough and the holding is good in mud, it’s also not an area that gets much strong wind, so we just found a 30 foot hole and dropped our anchor.  Perfect.  High tide is at about 8:30 tomorrow morning, so we will get up and get going around 7-7:30 to transit The Summit and Devil’s Elbow.

Second Wind anchored nearby not too long after we got settled.  We had dinner (Kenyan Beef Curry with brown rice and broccoli) and later Alice and Steve from Second Wind came over to visit.  They caught some rock fish on their trip from Baranof today so they very kindly brought some over for us.  We still have salmon in the icebox from Scott and now rock fish…we feel very rich!

Playing in the cockpit at anchor

Alaska Trip Day 67

7/22/11

Warm Spring Bay, Baranof  Island, AK

Miles Travelled:  0

We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to stay at Baranof for one more day, it is too neat to rush.  We got up this morning and hiked up to Baranof Lake with the boys strapped to us in the carriers.  It was a lovely walk, mostly on board walk and through beautiful woods with swampy area plants like skunk cabbage and salmon berry.  The lake was gorgeous and the boys had a great time playing at the “beach.”  Odin found the water and LOVED splashing in it and throwing pebbles…Grandpa Ralph would be so proud!  Both boys got wet enough that we had to strip down their clothes and put them in our fleeces.  Lars just got his pants wet, so Tor put his legs in the arms of his sweatshirt, but Odin got everything wet so all his clothes had to come off and he wore my jacket like a jacket.  Too cute to see them both bundled up that way!

When we got back to the dock, Second Wind was back at the dock as well as a couple of new arrivals, Voyageur and Makai, both boats we’ve seen off and on since Glacier Bay.  Apparently It was nasty out in Chatham Strait with 15-20 kts of wind from the S (not what the forecast said by the way) and 3-5 foot chop due to the wind opposing the ebbing tide.  Steve and Alice on Second Wind poked their noses out and decided to come right back, while Voyageur and Makai were very glad to get in to Baranof after their trip from Cosmos inlet.  We were glad we had decided to stay the day, though it does make us a little worried about our planned trip across Chatham Strait towards Kake tomorrow.  Based on what those boats experienced this morning, we will probably get up at about 5am and get across.  The forecast for tomorrow is the same as for today with S winds and we don’t want to experience the tide opposing the wind and it will start ebbing (or heading Southward) around 7:30 tomorrow.

The rest of the day was full of visiting.  After their nap, we ended up visiting Ron and Barb on Makai and the boys got to play in their spacious cabin.  They love having lots of space to crawl around in and the deck of cards that Barb gave them to play with was way too fun!

I baked bread in the afternoon and we had silver salmon from Scott on Sandy Point Maid roasted in olive oil and butter, broccoli and brown bread for dinner.  It was delicious.

After the boys went to bed, we washed more laundry with the abundant warm water from the hot springs and freshwater to rinse from the hose on the dock.  We each got another soak in the tubs and it’s early to bed for our early morning.

Mama and Lars hiking up to the lake

Papa and Odin hiking to the lake

Playing on the beach at the lake

Odin loved splashing in the water!

Making sure Odin doesn't go swimming

Two wet boys!

Wet Odin warming in my jacket

Odin tossing stones in the lake

Alaska Trip Day 66

7/21/11

Warm Spring bay, Baranof  Island, AK

Miles Travelled:  15

(Tor reporting)

Waking after a good night’s sleep we headed south a short 15 miles to more hot springs!  Unfortunately, the swell was up and things were a bit rolly when trying to both make progress southward - and feed boys oatmeal by spoon.  It worked, but there was grumbling in both the galley and the cockpit.  The seas settled down about half way to Warm Springs bay, but seven miles of rolling around was plenty for the four of us. We pulled into the bay just moments behind a 100+ foot charter vessel that beat us to the dock.  Luckily, we were able to back into a spot near the ramp that seemed made just for us.

Baranof hot springs is a VERY popular spot with, well, everyone.  During our first night at the dock there were three 100 foot or larger “private charter yachts” in the bay and two purse seiners in addition to six or so private boats.  Facilities are maintained by the borough of Sitka and consist of a boardwalk around the few private cottages along the shoreline and a bathing shed (maintained by residents) with three troughs plumbed direct with running hot spring water.  You can also hike about ½ mile to the natural springs near the river for a more natural setting.  Fortunately the tubs are large and we were able to get family bath time done all at once, and have a great time splashing water around doing it!

Although turnover at the dock is fairly quick we did have some great visits.  M/V Allegra we learned is usually tied up at the dock through the summer. Victor Cano has set up a very classy little gallery of his finely carved wooden masks on a piling at the dock for visitors to see and purchase.  He and his friendly dog Lola do a great job of stewarding the dock space and setting a friendly tone.  We also saw a  commercial troller named Sandy Point Maid that we were tied up next to in Sitka.  When we were in Sitka, Scott the owner was kind enough to give us a small party favor size container of  bubbles since we had kiddos on board, they have been a hit with Lars and Odin. 

We also met the couple aboard s/v Second Wind (Steve and Alice).  They live aboard in Anacortes and have been spending summers on northern waters since 1997 or so.  Although chatting on the dock was the first time we had met them face to face, it turns out that they spoke with us on the VHF radio our second day out of Ketchikan.  We had tried a number of times to hail s/v Baraka on the radio in Clarence Strait and were out of range.  Steve and Alice responded to say that they had seen Baraka in the Strait and that they were probably headed to Meyers Chuck.  It had been a very rough crossing and Second Wind, being a smaller boat (than Baraka) had tucked into a nearby anchorage.  It was very thoughtful of them to let us know they had seen our friends and great to finally meet them in person. 

Late in the afternoon the owner of Allegra caught a beautiful silver salmon off the dock and gave us half the fish all filleted for our dinner.  What a treat!  We have not had time on this trip to consider fishing, or crabbing – even if we did spring for the $150 license.  Jess and I get pretty excited when we have a chance to enjoy freshly caught fish!

We ended up the day with a couple of more soaks in the bathing tubs at the head of the dock and quite a few loads of wash done in our cockpit while the boys slept.  With an endless supply of hot water a short walk away, we washed everything we could think of!  You could hardly tell we were a sailing boat as all the lifelines and rigging were covered with our drying clothes.

Lars enjoying the tub

Mr. Blue eyes in a blue tub

One of the baths at Baranof, heaven!

The view of the falls and Baranof boardwalk from the bathhouse

Our favorite mask carved by Victor Cano

Alaska Trip Day 65

7/20/11

Echo Cove, Catherine  Island, AK

Miles Travelled:  43

(Tor reporting)

Sometimes, uneventful days can be really good.  Today was calm and Sunny.  We woke up about 0700 and fed the boys before departing from Baby Bear anchorage eastbound.  The currents were flooding through Sergius Narrows and as soon as we got out into the channel we were getting a healthy 1-2 knot push.   About halfway through the day we were passed by the motor vessel “Hey You” whom we met earlier in Taku Harbor and Juneau.  Katy, Rory and Madison had by this time already disembarked for home, but we chatted on the radio and said hello.  Kinda fun seeing familiar boats (and crews) on a 3000 mile journey!

Once again the afternoon nap and currents changed our plans and when late afternoon rolled around we decided to pass up our intended anchorage and keep on trucking.  Nothing like 150 feet of galvanized 5/16” anchor chain running out the haws pipe to wake up sleeping boys!  We decided to let them sleep and exited Peril Strait and hung a right, heading south down Chatham Strait. 

The guidebooks for this area are very good, but they are also very good at directing most of the boats to a few of the possible anchorages.  Last night at Baby Bear anchorage was a prime example, I am fairly certain that all of the small boats transiting through Sergius Narrows who anchored for the night stopped where we did.  Today, we had gorgeous weather and a prediction over the VHF for fair NW winds overnight so we tucked into Echo Cove, at the Southern tip of Catherine Island.  It is open to the South and as such most folks opt to keep going another 7-10 miles to Cosmos or Ell coves that are oriented east/west (which is perpendicular to the local winds).  We lucked out with the weather and were the only boat in a pretty magical spot.  We anchored in a calm spot only 30 feet deep at the head of the inlet and soaked up the glorious late afternoon Alaskan sun.

One neat thing that helped make this spot magical was the abundance of THOUSANDS of small, ½”-3/4” diameter jellyfish in the water.  Actually there must have been millions as they were all within a few inches of each other and did not seem to be spotty, but were throughout the bay.  Very pretty.

They both fell asleep playing...aren't they sweet?

Yum! Pork braised in milk, red cabbage with apples and yukon gold potatoes

Two little boys liked dinner!

Millions of Jellies!

Alaska Trip Day 64

7/19/11

Baby Bear Cove, Baranof Island, AK

Miles Travelled:  33

(Tor reporting)

Yare and crew departed the dock (Thompsen harbor) shortly after 0700 to head north to Peril Strait.  We decided to opt for the more protected “inside route” instead of heading out into the Pacific Ocean (if we were to have gone south down the coast from Sitka).  We have our hands full with the boys on this trip and protected waters through Peril Strait worked to get to Sitka – they ought to work to get us home…

The day was overcast and rainy but calm, and turned out to be an uneventful motor.  Tidal currents are still a factor in this area of Southeast AK but not nearly as severe as other places.  This is due to being on the ocean and not up a sound or channel.  We were able to time the currents through Olga and Neva straits, north of Sitka to have somewhat of a push through.  Jess was at the helm most of the day and even had the opportunity to maneuver around both a large Alaska state ferry AND a tug with tow in the most constricted portion of Olga strait.  I will say that the channel seems pretty slender when the other vessel is so big!

Our original plan was to anchor south/west of Sergius Narrows.  However, as often happens the boys were in the midst of their afternoon nap so we reduced our speed and motored around Fish Bay for about an hour waiting for the tidal currents to allow us to pass safely through Sergius Narrows.  We ended up challenging the high water slack by close to an hour but we cheated a bit by taking a shallower route called Canoe Pass.  It is only about 100 yards away from Sergius, but is much shallower, the currents are lower and only small boats can do it so you don’t have to worry about large, fast commercial traffic (Sweet!).  It worked beautifully and we snuck back into a nearly landlocked anchorage called Baby Bear Cove and anchored with three other vessels in a very protected location. The hillsides were covered with silver colored dead cedar trees interspersed in the forest.  Note: we learned later from a forestry employee we met at Baranof Warm Springs that the cedar trees are not able to come out of dormancy fast enough in their growing season as a result of the increasing air temperatures over the last 40-50 years  (Climate Change again…).  Because the Cedar wood is fairly rot resistant, the upright silvered “ghost trees” remain.

Yum!  King salmon, roasted sweet potato and steamed broccoli for dinner